Waukon to Waterville – 15.0 miles
Waterville to Yellow River State Forest – 8.8 miles
Yellow River State Forest to Harpers Ferry – 7.4 miles
Harpers Ferry to Lansing – 13.6 miles
Total Mileage: 44.8 miles
Total Feet of Climb: 3,200
Weather: 78/57, sunny, light winds...perfect!
I woke up with a sense of dread this morning. The 4 monster hills were ahead, and I was tired and sore after camping and a week of riding. Everyone had been talking about them, and some people chose not to ride at all on this day. The downhills the day before had been fast and a little scary with all the riders flying by. Newbies clung to their brakes, and seasoned riders tucked in and screamed by, enjoying the rush. I had been somewhere in between. More ambulances than usual rode the course. Something inside me said to just ride to Waterville and catch the sag wagon for the last 25 miles... or cut across to Lansing using the direct route on Hwy. 9, only 17 miles, to avoid the hills. I even contemplated asking a kid in town to drive me and my bike to Lansing for $20. Crazy things went through my head on this last day. Another part of me said suck it up and go, and so I did. This was my final day of RAGBRAI, and I had to make it count. I came here to finish, not to drop out. This was our route and elevation graph for the day...
I took down my tent for the last time and handed off my bags to the truck guys. There was a sense of excitement in camp as we dismantled our tents and anticipated the finish line. I took a sponge bath, ate an energy bar and hit the road at 7am.
The entire route today was new RAGBRAI territory and encompassed 44.8 miles with steep hills totaling 3,200 feet throughout Allamakee County. Actually, there were FOUR loooong, steep climbs today. On our way out of Waukon, friendly residents lined the streets ringing bells, wishing us a safe ride, thanking us for coming to their town, and handing out their town logo buttons and pints of chocolate milk from the local dairy!
http://www.kcrg.com/content/news/Monster-hills-highlight-final-leg-of-RAGBRAI-2017-437438233.html
An hour in, I pulled over for one last pancake breakfast, $5 and sponsored by a fire department. Lines were long, and I sat on a bale of hay and savored the beautiful morning and views of rolling hills. Not long after, I took a photo of one last family farm, as I knew we wouldn't be passing many more. They're so peaceful and charming to pass by in the mornings while riding. I savored the smells of hay and yes, manure... farm smells I wouldn't enjoy again after today.
I didn't think I was in Iowa as scenic landscapes and winding scenic byways showed off the splendor of the Driftless Area. 90 minutes after leaving camp in Waukon, the route took us through the town of Waterville, population 150, for the very first time. It was a steep decline riding into town. A little hamlet nestled at the base of a hill, Waterville is described as a sportsman's paradise, great for hunting, fishing and winter snowmobiling. In 1846, a treaty with the Winnebago Indians opened the Paint Creek Valley for settlers. In 1850, the first settlement was established that was known as Waterville. Original settlers came from Norway, Ireland, Germany and Scotland. Norwegian Lefse was offered by vendors here, a sort of flat bread made from potatoes, butter and flour. Yum! We hit our first "monster" hill, the smallest of the day, on the way out of town. It was long and steep, and I slowly peddled to the top without walking my bike. One down, three to go! My sense of dread was growing as even seasoned cyclists were discussing what was ahead..
9 miles down the rode, we entered the Yellow River State Forest, located in a physiographic region called the Paleozoic Plateau. This region includes northwestern Illinois, southwestern Wisconsin and southeastern Minnesota. It covers most of Allamakee County (in which Yellow River State Forest is located) and parts of Clayton, Fayette, Winneshiek, Howard, Dubuque, and Jackson Counties.The terrain changed drastically and was beautiful! We turned and dipped down into valleys and past ponds and forests. There were curvy roads offering cool shade for a change. No more fields of corn!
The road down was long and I dreaded what was coming... the climb back up. Sure enough, after a few miles it began. It was so steep I only made it about half way up, the first mile, and with my legs screaming, had to get off and walk. The hills were over a mile long and plenty of riders joined me on the shoulder. Try and spot the bottom of this thing! I was disappointed to walk part of it, but then the sag wagon passed us, and it was FULL of bikes of riders who quit the course and the day altogether! I felt a little better ;)
In contrast to most of Iowa, which is covered by deep deposits of glacial drift, the dominant feature of the surface of the Paleozoic Plateau is limestone and sandstone bedrock. For many years, and even today, the term "driftless area" was used, reflecting the belief that this region had never been glaciated. Thin, isolated areas of glacial drift do occur in the area, however. This drift is probably pre-Illinoian in age and approximately half a million years old. The ruggedness and deep dissection of the landscape is due to the elements having been at work for that period of time. It also has a 6 mile stocked trout stream! Yellow River State Forest is located just north of the Effigy Mounds National Monument, which protects 200 prehistoric mounds built by Native Americans. Many of the mounds depict bears or birds.
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After 7.5 miles and another nasty climb, we finally arrived in Harpers Ferry, another first time RAGBRAI community. It's named for David Harper, an Irish immigrant and prominent river man who operated a ferry on the Mississippi and played a major role in making Harpers Ferry an important river landing. I finally got a fruit smoothie with a pineapple garnish, and it was delicious! I'd really been craving fruit after eating pulled pork, pie, corn and corn dogs all week... pure bliss!
At the edge of town, the mighty Mississippi, America's river, came into view. To avoid the upcoming congestion in the end town of Lansing, we were encouraged to dip our front bike tires in the Mississippi River here, at one of the many boat ramps. We had dipped our rear tires in the start town of Orange City, in water from the Missouri River. I dipped my wheel, and it felt great. Some cyclists lifted their bikes over their heads for the photo, but that wasn't an option for me... way too heavy!
In the spring, Harper's ferry is known for the best mushroom hunting in the state! "Cabin people" return here for the summer to open up their summer homes on the river and breathe some life into the town. The residents were excited to have us and cheered us on with signs and cowbells. The worst was yet to come with two more wretched hills but they egged us on!
The final 13 mile leg of RAGBRAI XLV traveled north along the Great River Road. Not far out of town, we hit the 3rd of our 4 hills. Again, it was brutal and over a mile long! I pushed my way to the top, sweating and just closing my eyes to get through it. My quads were burning. I was sweating bullets, and I was sure I tasted blood when I breathed in deeply. Signs along the way told us how far we had come and the current elevation... only half way?! Groans, cursing and words of encouragement were heard along the way. At the top, almost everyone stopped to rest and recharge before tackling the final hill. Residents sat at the end of their driveways watching us suffer, cheering us on and promising a 3 mile downhill if we made it. I pushed halfway up the 4th and final ascent and had to get off and push my bike again, about a half mile straight up! It was almost harder than riding. The shoulder was clogged with riders but at the top there were cheers and high fives. We had made it. Then, as promised, there was a steep, fast 3 mile downhill. This time I just let go my inhibitions and flew down, praying I wouldn't hit a rock or crack in the road or have a tire blowout. It was scary as hell, but also came with a reckless sense of elation, freedom and pure joy. RAGBRAI was my Mt. Everest, and I had conquered it.
After the rapid descent, there were 3 more miles of flat road that ran along the beautiful Mississippi river into Lansing. What a relief when it came into view! Every house overlooking the river had a party going on and many team buses were loading their riders and bikes. It was a zoo, but I was done!
The historic river town boasts the ultra-steep Mt. Hosmer just blocks from downtown and the river. We also enjoyed a beautiful view of the Blackhawk Bridge as we entered town, built in 1931. Later, I would drive across it into Wisconsin on my way home later.
Approximately 3% of Americans live somewhere along the mighty Mississippi River. Settled in 1848, Lansing sprung to life in 1872 with the arrival of the railroad. Allegedly, in 1851, a Massachusetts sculptor named Harriett Hosmer was so taken by the river bend and bluffs that she raced a young river boat pilot to the top of the bluff and named it for herself. Today you can visit Mt. Hosmer. RAGBRAI riders were encouraged to ride to the top for a prize, as an added "bonus" challenge after finishing today. No thanks...
With many of its original historic building still intact, in 2014, the National Register of Historic Places designated the Lansing Downtown area as a National Historic District. Its Main Street looks much like it did over 100 years ago! Horsfall's Variety Store is a popular stop for tourists and locals alike. There are about 1,000 year round residents today. The Commercial Fishing Museum there has authentic wooden boats, commercial fishing displays and buttons made from clams fished from the Mississippi River. There are boat ramps and marinas, a sand bar for camping and "beach" lovers, and miles of trails for hiking. Wildlife is abundant, and Fish Farm Mounds pre-historic site is just 9 miles north.
Lansing had a beer tent, pontoon rides, a DJ and live music but most of us were there only briefly to retrieve our cars, clean up, meet up with friends and family at the finish line or depart on various shuttles to distant airports. It was a shame we didn't have more time in this quaint historic river town. I stopped at the baggage truck to claim my bags and parked my bike nearby.
I had a pleasant surprise at the finish line, as I seemed to be the only rider without anyone to meet, high five or congratulate me. Mid-week, after day two's 72 miles of peddling, I limped into the fairgrounds camp on my bike to claim my bags. I saw the sag wagon parked and approached the driver. I was delirious at this point from the long ride and frustrated that I hadn't been able to catch the sag wagon 50 miles into the day when I was so exhausted. I approached the driver and told him I might want a "day off", asking if I could just ride with him right out of the campground the next morning. He said that it's not allowed. He can only pick riders up along the route and I'd at least have to make an attempt. He suggested I wait for him just outside of the first town, about ten miles out from camp. I was a little envious of the teams with buses and support vehicles, allowing riders to take turns taking a rest day and hauling their bikes on top. The next morning, I was rested and my mind and attitude were right again so I rode the full day, as planned. I didn't give it another thought. On Saturday, as I rode into Lansing and dismounted at the baggage truck, there was the sag wagon driver. He smiled and said, "You made it! Congratulations!" and gave me a big hug. I can't believe with over 10,000 riders, he remembered me from one brief conversation, and was the only person to welcome me across the finish line. ;)
I then took a shuttle the 2 miles to retrieve my waiting dusty car west of town. Then I made my way back through the throng to load my stuff. The whole process took about an hour. I was sweaty and fatigued but drove three hours south to grab dinner at Five Guys and get a hot bath and good night's sleep at the Hampton Inn in Clinton, Iowa. It would make the next day's drive home shorter, only 11 hours. I had completed RAGBRAI, biking 410 miles across Iowa in 7 days!
I can't believe I made it. What an adventure and accomplishment. I had my doubts but feel stronger than ever. Here's a great photo to wrap up today's post...SO true!
Stay tuned in a day or two for ONE more post... I'm going to close this blog with my RAGBRAI insights and some photos that didn't make it into the blog yet plus things I witnessed, thought, felt and learned along this once in a lifetime 410 mile, life changing journey.... ;)
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